Venice in December


Gondolas at the Pier

Venice in December is typically cold and foggy but it’s an interesting time to visit, if only to be far from the madding crowd and still make the most of the city’s unique heritage. Having flown to the UK on a work trip in December, I was keen to explore a European destination before heading home and whilst I’d always wanted to visit Venice one day, the thought of exploring this city surrounded by packs of other tourists put me off from making firm plans. December therefore seemed to offer a perfect opportunity to do so in a quieter setting and to focus on visiting some of the art galleries, to read, to write and take photographs at one’s own pace….and space! I was alone and it might have seemed strange to be exploring one of the most beautiful and romantic cities in the world, a solitary figure. But it was fine. And I’d do it again.

Misty Morning
A quiet walk along the canals
Getting lost in the maze

The mood in December is dreamy, melancholic and surreal, as one  wanders through the city on misty mornings. It’s a safe city and the effects of jet lag saw me setting off through Venice’s mazes at the crack of dawn. As I walked, the city slowly awoke from its slumber: lights being switched on in dark houses; dogs and their owners on their daily routes; boatmen making their way to the pier….precious quiet moments before day break.

Grand Canal

There are so many beautiful shops in Venice and I peered through the windows to gaze at a display of masks in one shop; of delicious sweets and pastries in various pasticceria and I picked up food and drink for the day, from these temptations at the windows. With so much of Venice being geared for tourists it’s hard sometimes to get a feel for local life…and for honest conversations and experiences. It was nice therefore to talk with a young lady who worked at one of the hotels who felt, for example, that the local council was not doing enough for the city, despite the revenues it earned. Also with an artist who was painting the scene of the canal in front of him, who let his guard down a bit to tell me about his travels around the world, his wife and how he hated mobile phones! There were other unexpected moments, like the exhibition of an Indian artist, V.S.Gaitonde, at the Guggenheim, displaying various works in his “nonobjective style”, and the vision and insight of so many galleries and museums, large and small, with artwork of the past and of the future. I was unsure about visiting the Teatro La Fenice but I did in the end- the interior was beautiful and I spent some time gazing at the exquisite ceiling.

La Fenice

The decay of Venice is also, in some ways, its beauty and few cities in the world are able to provide this fascinating composite of breathtaking beauty and understated elegance and mystery. And regardless of how busy Venice gets, there are always opportunities to indulge in quieter times and steal some intimate moments, like visiting Venice in December.


Piazza San Marco

Comments

Popular Posts